Wednesday, 14 December 2011

Llanbadarn Wall

So here we go Llanbadarn Wall a cheeky little bit of traversing right in the middle of Aberystwyth about 5mins from the University and pretty much smack bang in the centre of town.

My girlfriend who is currently at uni in Aber and myself stumbled across this toe destroying beauty one wet afternoon and promised we would come back for a play.
So here is my write up of what I think could be a great bit of training for the keen climbers in Aber that just what a quick session but want to touch real rock. With the uni climbing wall not being great...... in need of a bit of route setting TLC, this could be away to get fit for those great trips to the crags of North Wales. 
This wall is thick in pointing and runs right on the main road, its just over 100m long and about 3m high at it high point. The wall is perfectly split into 3 sections by three lamp posts, 
which give the first 3 obvious challenges each section between the lamp posts. Section 1 I have done which yealded 'Protest Predicament' a V5/6 (Font 6c+/7a) So named due to the tachers union protests on the day we went to climb the wall. After these 3 you have the big daddy the full right to left (No idea on how hard) This could be quite tricky due to the middle traverse of the three being harder than the one either end. Then the full tick the there and back. 200m of toe-destructiveness.

More pictures will follow when we get back to the wall and try some more of the problems, plus I am in the process of getting the wall verified on UKC so keep you eyes peeled for Llanbadarn wall in the crag search.

If you are keen on a bit of buildering and live in Aberystwyth trust me keep your eyes peeled because this is a great bit of fun, for some quick fix climbing, that at the same time is very challenging and fun.

North Wales Gear Testing

The first of many adventures to grace the blog. Yay, one of my long awaited trips to the mountains of North Wales, I must admit I am kinda obsessed with the place, but that can't be such a bad thing....Well the plan was this basically a big new gear test as well as getting my dad up some proper mountains, he would tell you he has been up loads "big hills don't count, I tell him." So off to North Wales one Thursday night we go, this way we can make the most of a long weekend. First of all we did the only sensible thing which is make the most of the fantastic Bryn Tyrch pub in Capel Curig as it was in walking distance from where we planed to stay the night. After a bit of quaffing of some very fine beverages we headed back to the car parked at the base of Milestone Buttress. (gr: 661,603) So we headed up the hill and found a great pitch for my new Mountain Equipment Dragonfly 2 tent (see blog post 'Mountain Tent Perfection') just big enough for the tent, and just away from the base of the buttress not to put off any early rising climbers.

This is where the story  takes a bit of a sad/depressing turn so bear with me. At 4am in the morning I hear the car alarm going off :-( and get up to investigate and found both back windows smashed. Luckily only my dad overnight work bag and a rucksack with minimal stuff just cloths and a few dry bags etc went. However this is a reminder to keep you kit hidden/out of view in your car as in the boot was all my kit (over £2,500 worth) What this meant was a call to the police and an early morning jaunt to Lllanberis to get Autoglass to mend the back windows so our trip could continue in the spirit in which it was intended. However this meant we could go the Petes Eats for breakfast. If you have not been to Pete's you have not been for a proper adventure in North Wales, that's all I'm saying.......
The plan was to walk out to the bass of Dinas Mot (gr: 628,567) wild camp then back to Milestone the next day then off home, but this had been some what stunted by previous incidents of the day. So we drove back to the Tryfan Campsite and parked there.
(£1 for all day, and safe)
Now the route up the north face of Tryfan (gr: 667,599) down the South, Up Bristly Ridge (gr: 661,588), Summit Glyder Fach (gr: 656,583) and then down Y Gribin (gr: 651,582) to meet the A4086 then back to the car at the Tryfan Campsite (gr: 673,604)
So we set off and what an amazing day very windy, but dry and not cold with the right cloths on. I have this talent for being able to go to Wales and it not raining and as a rule the weather being on my side "I think I must have magical powers" The scrabble up the north ridge was great fun and when we got to the top we settled down behind Adam and Eve for a coffee and come food. (Jet Boil Flash review coming soon) After that it was back down then Bristly Ridge was the next challenge. I will always recommend a helmet for Bristly due to the very loose start, and you can not see who is above you. As you can see from the 3rd photo from the top shorts and t-shirts on the ridge (and yes we were stopped in a safe location hence no helmets) After the top hunting out the Canter Leaver Stone is always worth a go to try and get an original picture as a posed to the "lets all jump" Down Y Gribin now which is a long old slog right from almost 1000m down to 300m.

All in all an amazing day, but as I said as long as I am in Wales I am happy. Feel free to comment and ask questions and enjoy your trips to Wales or give me a shout and I will gladly take you ENJOY.....

Tuesday, 13 December 2011

Mountain Tent Perfection


A long waited purchase of my mountain tent for lightweight walking and mountaineering. So this is my review on its maiden mountain voyage to North Wales for some wild camping in the mountains of the Snowdonia National Park. First and foremost I can’t believe how much effort has gone into making this tent lightweight, as well as the ultra small pack down size. As far as the pegs go made from lightweight aluminium “I have written with heavier biros”. The DAC tent poles are also super lightweight and make it so easy to place the poles in their sleeves. Another great feature is the Pockets at the ends of the tent sleeves that mean one person can put the tent up with ease without another person to hold the pole in on the other side of the tent. I recon overall pitch time on this tent for one person is about 5mins. Saying that I have tried a super fast pitch of the tent on the front lawn at home and done it solo in 2.5mins. Once pitched you are left with the perfect pitched tent every time. The porch is plenty big enough to cook in and keep your kit from getting wet. Once inside it leaves plenty of room for 2 with great vents on either side and by your feet. After the first nights sleep when packing away the Thermarests, I think it is the only tent that I have noticed no visible signs of condensation on the floor of the tent. All in all if you are looking for the only tent you will ever need in the mountains, look no further. “Enjoy your camping all.”

La Sportiva Raptors Review

Just started running to get my fitness up for climbing, I must be MAD. Well I thought first things first go for my first run and see if I actually enjoy it, I did (THAT'S IT I AM ACTUALLY MENTAL.)
So at that point I went and bought some kit, I quizzed my dad up (a veteran of 10 London Marathons) and asked him what he thought I would need. At the top of his list was a good pair of running shoes that fit you well.

I currently wear Sportiva Solutions to climb in, so it seemed an obvious choice to go down the same make in running shoes.

I put the order in after looking through the range and decided as I was going to be doing quite a lot of off road, as well as on the Raptors would be the obvious choice.  When they came I could not wait to go for a run the next day, which I think is why you get new kit sometimes it inspires you to go and do.

I was really impressed with how comfy they were to wear and the support on the heel when it came to running. They have a special flex system that means the toe part of the shoe moves really easy when running which means you are not fighting the shoe to run it actually works with you. The sole of the shoe offers lots of grip with its "Impact Brake" system and FriXion XF rubber.

All in all I am well impressed and I am sure they will give me many happy miles on and off road.
Enjoy your running
James